Evening Scene

Image

First pic I took on my Nikon D90.  More about this camera at some point.  I like the light & shade in this one.

Advertisements

USE YOUR BOTTOM

When attempting to shoot in low light whilst still retaining a clean, sharp and noise free image and you have no tripod to hand look for a flat surface to rest your camera.  Set the camera to timer or use your remote shutter release if you have one.  Focus and fire away.  Adjust aperture/shutter speed if image is under or overexposed and try again.

Flippin obvious I hear you shriek!   I KNOW however a lot of people will attempt to illuminate a large space in low light with wholly inadequate inbuilt camera flash – see it all the time.  How this amuses me!   The next time you’re inside the Sistine Chapel lay thy camera down switch off the flash and time the shot.  

Even if shooting in decent light images will be sharper if the camera is placed on a solid surface and untouched by human hand when the shutter releases.  

Here’s a couple of snaps taken whilst I had nothing better to do.  The first was taken with a cheap compact camera set to a 2 second exposure – worked a treat!  The second taken through a window in my flat and placed the camera on the windowsill.

Image

Image

RAW POWER!

If you have the option and a decent sized memory card take your pictures in RAW.  You will then have the capability of making adjustments to the image quality of each picture in ways that are not possible on a standard JPEG file.  For the me the main advantage in shooting in RAW is that images tend to be sharper, detail in shadow/darker areas of an image can be recovered and over-bright highlights can be muted and detail again revealed.

To choose RAW  go to Image Quality in your cameras menu and adjust to suit.  I always have my camera set to RAW + JPEG Basic and use the JPEG image for reference before editing the images I like.

 Below is an example of an image taken as a JPG.

Image

And below is the same image taken in RAW and with quick adjustments made to the shadow/shaded areas.  I’ve also muted or ‘Protected’ the  bright highlight areas/spots slightly.

Image

And as you can see we now have detail in the trunk of the tree that was hard to see in the original JPEG image. A rather sinister reptilian like eye is revealed!  The highlights in the  background are also less harsh and therefore less of a distraction.  Adjustments like this take less than a minute on the software that should be provided with any half decent camera.   It’s simply a matter of moving  the slider on the shadow or highlight protection  in the adjustment options.

So do you have RAW capability?  Check it out!

Summer Bug Haze #2

Summer Bug Haze #2

Again taken with the Nikkor 35-80mm fantasticplastic lens! Shooting directly into the sun is something I like to do and this lens is able to control flare and produces fantastic sunstar pattens. Warning shooting into the sun can damage the sensor so do so with EXTREME CAUTION!